MY Malaysia: how to get around

Air conditioning on some buses can be extremely cold so don't forget to bring a good sweater, pants and socks, especially for overnight journeys on luxury buses!

If travelling on holidays or even over the weekend, it is advisable to reserve your seats in advance. Many bus companies allow for you to book online directly through their website. However, some only allow online booking for individuals with Malaysian credit cards, which is not really convenient for international visitors. With some website you will still have to pay a station fee of RM2 at the bus station, with others not. At TBS (KL) it is easy to book a bus directly at the station. Often RM0.40 are charged as insurance by stations, tell them if you don't want that.

The common booking websites are:

• Bus Online Ticket, ☏ +603 2027 4626, sales@busonlineticket.com. (updated May 2019)
• redBus, ☏ +65-31582888, support@redbus.sg.
• Easybook (Easibook), ☏ +60 4 332 7718, enquiry@easybook.com. (updated Mar 2015)

State operator Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTMB) provides relatively inexpensive and generally reliable services around Peninsular Malaysia (but not Sabah/Sarawak in Borneo). The main western line connects Padang Besar (at the Thai border), Butterworth (via a branch line, with ferry connections to George Town), Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur and Johor Bahru, while the eastern line branches off at Gemas and runs through Gua Musang and the Taman Negara to Tumpat, near the Thai border and the Perhentian Islands. Be sure to hold on to your ticket, as it will be checked at your destination station before you are allowed to leave.

Tickets can be pre-booked up to 6 months in advance from KTMB's website, app or by calling KTMB ☏ +60 3 2267-1200 (Malaysia) or, ☏ +65 6222-5165 (Singapore).

Services on the West Coast are served by fast ETS (Electric Train Service) trains which connect Padang Besar at the Thai border and Butterworth to Johor Bahru at the border with Singapore. ETS trains are clean, reliable and air conditioned throughout. Trains are classified Express, Platinum, Gold, and Silver, based on how many stops they make. Seating is similar throughout, but faster trains are slightly more expensive; the KL-Ipoh Express trains cost RM46 compared to RM31 on Silver trains.

If you’re willing to splurge, business class is available on Express and Platinum trains. These include a meal and snack box, lounge access at KL Sentral station, and more spacious seats in a 2-1 arrangement compared to the 2-2 in standard. These generally cost about 50% more than the standard class fare.

Microwaved meals, snacks and drinks are available from the onboard bistro - cash or QR payment only! If you are paying with cash have some loose change ready as change is not always readily available.

KTM Kommuter serves many local stations around KL, including the Batu Caves as well as from Padang Besar to Butterworth. Seats cannot sell out and no reservations are possible.

The Jungle Railway is the apt description for the eastern line between Tumpat (close to the Thai border) and Gemas, including stops at Gua Musang, Kuala Lipis, Jerantut (for Taman Negara) and Wakaf Bahru (for Kota Bharu and the Perhentian Islands).

The daytime services on this line use clean, modern and air-conditioned Class 61 diesel multiple units (DMUs), which have replaced the old non-air-conditioned locomotive-hauled trains, though the seats do not recline, which can make them rather uncomfortable for longer journeys. No daytime services run along the entire line, so you will need to change trains at Kuala Lipis to travel all the way between Gemas and Tumpat.

The eastern line also has one night express train (for which reservations are possible and recommended) going in each direction between Johor Bahru and Tumpat. These use older locomotive-hauled trainsets, which have air-con seats and Superior Night (ADNS) sleeper cars, which have upper and lower berths along each side, each bunk having a solid partition at each end and a side curtain for privacy. The carriages shake and rattle quite a bit but are comfortable and clean, though the toilets may come across as a little grimy. These trains have windows for both top and bottom bunks, unlike on Thai sleeper trains.

A third line, known as the East Coast Rail Link is under construction between Port Klang and Kota Bharu, with plans for it to pass through Kuantan and Kuala Terengganu along the way. It is scheduled to be completed in 2027.

In East Malaysia, the only railway line is run by Jabatan Kereta Api Negeri Sabah (JKNS) (Web-site in Malay only), running from Tanjung Aru near Kota Kinabalu to the town of Tenom.

Belmond's Eastern & Oriental Express offers 3-6 day excursions by train. These trains used to run all the way to Bangkok, but since the COVID pandemic have run only within Malaysia. These offer a luxurious way to travel through Malaysia, but at a considerably higher price.

Malaysia has an excellent highway network with over 2,000 km (1,200 mi) of expressways, culminating in the North-South Expressway (Lebuhraya Utara-Selatan) along the West Coast from Johor Bahru at the border with Singapore all the way to Bukit Kayu Hitam in Kedah at the border with Thailand. There is also the East Coast Expressway (Lebuhraya Pantai Timur), crossing Peninsular Malaysia coast-to-coast from Kuala Lumpur to Kuantan before heading up north towards Kuala Terengganu. Petrol is slightly cheaper than market prices at RM1.90/litre (Ron 95) (in Peninsular Malaysia, Sabah and Sarawak). Tolls are payable on expressways, but these are priced at varying degrees, ranging from expensive to reasonable: driving the length of the country 734 km (456 mi) from the Thai border to Singapore costs RM108. While you can drive from Singapore to Thailand within a day on the West Coast, the highway system is considerably less developed on the East Coast, and even less so in Sabah and Sarawak, so be sure to factor in additional travel time if travelling in those areas. Toll prices for highways and causeways inside major cities, especially Kuala Lumpur, are priced exorbitantly, ranging from RM4 to RM7 for each exit.

While driving quality and habits in Malaysia are better than in most of the rest of Southeast Asia, they are not necessarily great, especially compared to what visitors from most Western countries are used to at home. Traffic in Malaysia drives on the left, a legacy left by the British. Beware reckless motorcyclists, especially at night, and especially if you are a pedestrian: locals typically disregard a red light for left turns, putting pedestrians at risk. As a motorist, at traffic lights, motorcyclists will accumulate in front of you — let them drive away first to avoid accidents.

Care is needed when driving in larger cities, such as Kuala Lumpur, Johor Bahru and George Town. Problems include apparently suicidal motorcyclists, congested traffic lanes throughout the day, and bewildering roads especially in the older parts of the city where planning was virtually nonexistent by the then British colonial occupiers. Out of town, however, cars and motorcycles are the best and sometimes the only way to explore the country. Some of the more rural areas have motorcycles and scooters to rent for as little as RM25/day, a great way to explore the local area or larger islands like Langkawi. As expected, most rental agencies will require a valid driving licence to be presented upon rental. Fuel levels are often compared before and after rental, and the vehicle is also checked for damage, so ensure everything is documented, and request a refund of any excess fuel if possible. The bigger car rental companies like Hertz and Avis may also require you to have a valid credit card where a deposit will be authorised but not deducted from (unless there is damage to the car).

Taxis are available in all cities and larger towns, although in smaller places you may have to call one (ask any shopkeeper or consult the yellow-pages). You will generally need to negotiate the fare in advance, although prepaid coupon taxis are usually available at airports. RM5 should suffice for a short cross-town trip, while RM100 is enough to hire a taxi for a full day.

Many taxis will refuse to use the meter, even though there is an official rate. Most taxis now have a sticker on the rear door informing tourists that haggling is prohibited. Taxi drivers, sensing that you are a tourist, may drive around and take a very long route to reach your destination.

If you need a taxi late at night, it is best to use the dial-a-taxi service as there have been incidents in which taxis flagged down during those hours have been fake/unregistered. An unregistered taxi driver might rob or assault you with the help of other assailants. You are also more likely to get a metered taxi by flagging one at a street than at a taxi stand.

It is advisable to study maps and compare fares on the internet before visiting the country. Knowing distances between places is helpful when negotiating with taxi drivers. They won't try to fool even a foreigner who demonstrates clearly that he knows the distance from point A to point B is 50 km and not 150 km.

Do not accept the first rates for inter-city travels by car offered by hotels, as these could be as much as double normal prices. In this case, negotiate with a taxi driver directly for a better and fair price (for example, a hotel near Balok Beach, not very far from Kuantan, asked 800 RM for a ride to Johor Bahru, while a negotiated price with a taxi driver who could be found in downtown Kuantan came down to a normal 400 RM). But for all this you need to know the exact distance and if possible even the exact itinerary between your departure and arrival point.

In Kuala Lumpur, the budget taxis are usually coloured Red and White (City taxi – these taxis are not allowed to travel out of the city e.g. to another state) or Yellow. The Blue taxis are larger saloons or MPVs (Multi Purpose Vehicles) and more luxurious. These cost typically 25–30% more than the budget taxis & are normally available at taxi stands all over Kuala Lumpur including the major malls & hotels.

The Red & White taxis can be hailed off the roads and are metered. Ensure that the taxi driver is a Malaysian (all drivers must have a taxi permit & license with their photo on it) before you board, as unscrupulous taxi owners have been known to rent their taxi out to unlicensed stand-ins. All legal taxi drivers must be Malaysian citizens or permanent residents as the Malaysian government does not issue work visas to foreigners to drive taxis.

Additionally, beware of unlicensed taxis (taxi sapu) at the airports. They can literally take you for a ride. There will be touts at the airports offering travellers their taxi service, even pretending to be legitimate. As unbelievable as it may sound, some have been known to rob first time visitors hundreds of ringgit for a single trip into the city, charging 100 times more than the correct fare. At the airports always get your taxi from the authorised operators' booths set up in the airport itself & never from anyone that solicits directly. They will always claim to be legitimate but are rarely licensed and may be unsafe. The taxi operator booths can provide you with receipts. Another tip is to book your taxis in advance. All good hotels' concierge will be able to assist you with this. If travelling in an unlicensed taxi you may not be covered by your travel insurance should that taxi be involved in a mishap.

The most popular ride hailing app is Grab, which took over Uber's former Southeast Asian operations. You can pay with your card (via the Grab app) or cash; most drivers have change.

Rides within KL seldomly cost more than RM15. If it seems overly expensive at a certain moment, walk a little and check again — often near major points of interests ride are more expensive.

Although Malaysia's cycling infrastructure is not well developed, travelling by bicycle is a good way to enjoy the scenery while exploring rural Malaysia. Long-distance bicycle tours are regularly organised by enthusiast groups, including some cross-border tours from Singapore.

When cycling on the road, you are required to ride in a single file, and riding in the shoulder is forbidden. Cycling on pedestrian footpaths is also forbidden except for toy bicycles ridden by children under the age of 12. All bicycles must be equipped with a bell and independently-operated brakes on each wheel. A white front light and a red rear light are mandatory when cycling at night. It is legal to cycle on any road unless there is a sign prohibiting it. While there is no specific law against cycling on expressways, you are highly advised not to do so for safety reasons; all PLUS expressways (including the Malaysian side of the Second Link from Singapore) and the LATAR expressway linking Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Selangor have signs prohibiting cyclists.

Ferries link the mainlands of Peninsular Malaysia and East Malaysia with several outlying islands. The main ferries foreigners are likely to use are from Butterworth (for connections with the railway network) to George Town on Penang island, as well as ferries to Kuah in Langkawi from Kuala Perlis and Kuala Kedah. Direct ferries between Penang and Langkawi no longer operate. On the East Coast, ferries operate to the popular dive resort islands, including from Mersing to Pulau Tioman, from Merang to Pulau Redang and from Kuala Besut to the Perhentian Islands.

There are no ferries between Peninsular Malaysia and East Malaysia.