IT Italy: how to get around

Although between Milan and Naples (including Bologna, Florence and Rome), high-speed trains cut travel times in half, on other routes, such as between Rome and Genoa, Naples and Reggio Calabria, Venice and Trieste, they travel on the traditional line, with only marginally shorter travel times compared to Intercity trains.

On long routes, such as Milan - Rome or Milan - Reggio di Calabria, Trenitalia operates special night trains: Intercity notte. They depart around 22.00 and arrive in the morning.

The lines to buy tickets are often long and slow, so get to the station early. There are efficient, multilingual, touch-screen ticket machines, but the lines for them are often long, too, because there are few of them.

You can also buy tickets online on the Trenitalia website; you will receive a code (codice di prenotatione (PNR)) that is used to pick up the ticket from a ticket machine in the station ("Self Service"). The site will show the "best" (usually more expensive) connections - you may select to "show all connections" (or "Regional trains") to see if there are slower but cheaper connections available.

For high-speed and intercity trains you can also choose a ticketless option. You get a PNR code via email and board the train directly. On board you must tell the conductor your PNR code.

High-speed trains can fill up, so if you're on a tight schedule, buy the tickets in advance. In general, you should buy the tickets before boarding the train. Fines start at €50. If you're running late and have no ticket, it's probably best to talk directly with the conductor (il controllore or il capotreno) outside the train before boarding.

Trenitalia Pass: you buy a number of days of travel to be used within 2 months, however you still have to pay a supplement on the compulsory reservation services, i.e. TBiz, Eurostar Italia, and Intercity which will be €5-25, depending on the train type. Details are on the Trenitalia website, and also on the International Rail website.

You must validate the ticket before boarding most trains, by stamping it in one of the white boxes (marked Convalida). Tickets that specify the day and time of travel do not need to be validated.

The cheapest way to travel in a region is to buy a zone ticket card. A chart displayed near the validating machine tells you how many zones you must pay between stations. To buy a zone card for the next region, get off the train at the last station, buy the ticket, and board the next train (usually departing in about an hour).

A smoking ban in public places is in effect in Italy. Smoking on any Italian train is subject to a fine.

The advent of low-cost carriers made domestic air travel cheaper. When booked in advance, plane tickets for long trips are often cheaper than train fares. ITA Airways, Ryanair, Easyjet and Blue Express operate domestic flights while small, new airlines appear and disappear often.

Italy has a well-developed system of motorways (autostrade) in the North, while in the South it's a bit worse for quality and extent. Most motorways are toll roads. The autostrade are marked with green signs, while general highways are marked with blue signs. Speeding on the autostrade is nowadays less common than in the past. There are automatic systems to punish speeding and hazardous driving. Italian Highway Patrol (Polizia Stradale) operates unmarked cars equipped with advanced speed radars and camera systems.

The tolerated alcohol limit is 0.50g/L (0.05%) in blood, or zero for drivers under 21 years of age or with less than 3 years of driving experience.

Fuel prices are in line with those in western Europe and more expensive than in North America and Japan.

Traffic in large Italian cities is heavy and finding a parking spot ranges from a challenging to an impossible enterprise at times. Park your vehicle at a park-and-ride facility or somewhere in the outskirts and use public transport. Be careful with Zone a Traffico Limitato or ZTLs (Limited Traffic Zones). They are restricted areas in the historical centres of many cities, where only authorised vehicles are permitted. Many tourists are fined (about €100) for entering a ZTL unknowingly.

EU licences are automatically recognised. If you don't have an EU driving licence, you need an International Driving Permit in addition to your home driver's license in order to drive. To obtain a recognition of your driving licence (adeguamento or tagliando di riconoscimento) you will need to pass a medical examination.

All motor vehicles in Italy must have insurance (assicurazione) for at least third party liability.

From November 15 to April 15, you must carry snow chains in your car legally, even if there is no snow on the road.

Buy town bus tickets from corner shops, bus-company offices or automated machines before boarding (on some systems, tickets might be bought on-board from an automated machine). Buying tickets from the bus driver is generally not possible.

The payment system for most mass transit in Italy (urban trains, city buses, subway) is based on voluntary payment combined with variable enforcement. Tickets are bought before boarding and validated on an on-board machine; inspectors may board the vehicle to check the passengers' tickets and issue fines to those lacking a validated ticket. The inspectors are generally recognizable by some item displaying the company's logo. When issuing a fine, inspectors are allowed to ask to see your documents, and they have to give some sort of receipt with date, time and location. They are never allowed to directly collect the fine (which generally can be paid at a post office). Assaulting an inspector during his work is a serious offense.

Daily, weekly, monthly and year-round tickets are generally available, in addition to multi-use tickets. These may or may not need to be validated. In almost every city there's a different pricing scheme, so check ticket formulas and availability in advance. For tourists it may be very convenient to buy daily (or multi-day) tickets that allow unlimited travel within a single day or period. Major cities have some type of City Card, a fixed-fee card allowing travel on local public transportation, visits to a number of museums, and discounts in shops, hotels and restaurants.

Check for these possibilities at local tourist offices or on the city's website (which is often of the form www.comune.cityname.it as for example www.comune.roma.it).

Intercity buses used to be a niche market in Italy. The main intercity bus operator in Italy is Flixbus, which operates a vast network of routes connecting cities across the country. Other bus companies in Italy include Saj, MarinoBus and Itabus.

The prices of intercity bus tickets in Italy are usually lower than train tickets, making them an attractive option for budget-conscious travellers. However, the travel time for buses can be longer than trains, and the comfort level may be lower.

The buses in Italy are generally modern and well-maintained, with air conditioning and comfortable seating. Some buses also offer onboard amenities such as free Wi-Fi, power outlets, and toilets.

It's worth noting that some cities in Italy have restricted access to vehicles, and it may not be possible to reach certain areas by bus. Therefore, it's essential to plan your journey carefully and check the bus routes and schedules in advance.

Tickets for intercity buses in Italy can be purchased online, at bus stations, or from ticket agents. It's advisable to book your tickets in advance, especially during peak travel periods, as seats can fill up quickly.

Most commonly used are Uber, AppTaxi and FreeNow followed by InTaxi, ItTaxi and DigiTaxi (updated May 2024)

Hitchhiking is looked down upon by the Italians. You will almost never find Italians hitchhiking, unless their car or bus has broken down. Prostitutes often pretend to hitchhike to attract clientele so it's advisable to avoid being mistaken for one. Hitchhiking along expressways and highways is forbidden by law and off the Autostrade, Italians are unlikely to pick up hitchhikers.

That said, hitchhiking in the summer in touristy areas usually works well because you'll get rides from Northern European tourists, and it works well in rural areas as long as there is consistent traffic (because you're still playing the odds), but hitchhiking near large cities or along busy routes is frustrating.

Fully assembled bikes are only permitted on Regional and Intercity trains for a supplemental fee of €5 or less. High-speed trains (Frecciarossa and Italo) only allow bikes that are "disassembled and contained in a bag, or a fully closed folding bike" as long the size doesn't exceed 80×110×45 cm.

Approaching Italy by sea can be a great experience and is a good alternative to traditional onshore “tours”. A yacht charter to Italy is a fulfilling way to experience the country. Although the yacht charter industry is smaller than one would expect for this incredibly popular tourist destination, there are many reasons to choose a yacht over a more conventional onshore approach. The Italian coast, like the French coast, attracts luxury yacht charters of the highest standards. “Touring” Italy from a private yacht is surprisingly convenient and comfortable. Italy’s dramatic coastline is best appreciated from the sea. You may take a swim whenever you like, and many famous sights are near the seashore. Cruising on a private yacht shields one from the crowds and traffic infesting popular destinations.

Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast, Sardinia and Sicily are the main nautical regions. Each has its own flavor and is rewarding in its own particular way.