KE Kenya: how to get around

Airkenya, Safarilink, Skyward Express have flights from Wilson Airport Nairobi to Ukunda/Diani, Malindi, Lamu, Amboseli National Park, Maasai Mara, Meru, Nanyuki and Samburu. The lounge features a Dormans cafe. Check in can be done up to 15 minutes before departure. Wilson Airport was once the busiest airport in Africa outside South Africa and remains a major hub for local flights to the nature reserves in Kenya and to cities in neighbouring countries. Anyone using Airkenya is advised to lock their checked-in bags. Things have been known to go missing from luggage while in the care of Airkenya.

Most charter tourists fly directly to either of the coastal airports of Mombasa or Malindi.

Kenya has a network of long-distance bus lines. Speed is limited to 80 km/h, and the highways can be very bumpy and dusty, so be sure to pick a comfortable and reputable coach company such as Modern Coast for the long journeys.

Local buses in town are run by private companies, such as the green and yellow Citi Hoppa, which provide transportation along various routes for Ksh 50–100. They have regular services in and out of the Nairobi city suburbs. They usually seat 20–35 passengers (no standing passengers are allowed by law) and are a cleaner and less hectic mode of transport than matatus, while still plying many of the same routes.

• Guardian Coach
• Modern Coast

Matatus are privately operated minibuses, typically for 14 or 25 passengers and operating over short and medium distances. They provide a very cheap and quick method of transport in all the major towns and many rural areas. The name matatu comes from the Kiswahili word for the number three – tatu – because some time ago the standard fare was three ten-cent coins. Matatus operate along set routes, picking and dropping off passengers at any point along the way. Most rides within cities cost Ksh 40–100.

Many matatus are poorly maintained and many are to be found with a fascinating and colourful décor — usually global icons in sports and music, designer brands, et al. — which is a major feature of Kenyan urban culture. Travel by matatu can be risky as the vehicles are often extremely badly driven, with matatu drivers swerving in and out of traffic and stopping at a moment's notice by the side of the road for passengers. Matatus used to be usually packed to well over capacity – up to 25 people in a 14-seater vehicle. It is strongly advised not to take matatus at night, as they are known targets for robberies, in addition to the increased risks of reckless night driving.

Passenger trains are making a comeback in Kenya with the new railway line, often referred to SGR (short for standard-gauge railway), linking the capital Nairobi with the port city of Mombasa. The line is fully operational with three trains in each direction every day, journey time is about five hours. There is also an SGR line from Nairobi to Naivasha.

Trains are branded as Madaraka Express and are operated by Kenya Railways. There is one Express train and two Inter-Country, with the latter making more stops along the route. As of 2024, tickets for the full journey are Ksh 4,500 for first class and Ksh 1,500 for second. Tickets can be bought at their dedicated website. While the trains operate at semi-high speed, stations are often far from the city centre. In Nairobi and Mombasa, travel time from the city centre to the station is up to one hour.

The old colonial metre-gauge railway network (often referred to as MGR) is being rehabilitated too. While this network is considerable slower compared to SGR (and even intercity buses!), fares are very cheap and the routes are scenic. There's a 2x weekly train between Nairobi and Nanyuki via Nyeri, departing from Nairobi on Tuesday and Fridays and from Nanyuki on Wednesday and Sundays. Journey time of about six hours. the 3rd class ticket is now 400. Also, there are 1x weekly trains between Nairobi and Kisumu, departs Nairobi Friday. departs Kisumu Sunday on the shores of Lake Victoria. A 3rd class ticket costs Ksh 900.

Kenya Railways have stated their intent to revive the network to the border of Uganda and Tanzania too, opening the possibilities of international travel in the near future.

• Regular taxis are safer than matatus, and some think they should always be used, especially at night. Always negotiate the price before the trip. You can calculate about €1/km.
• Driving services have overtaken traditional taxis for tourists as they are cheaper and you can see the fare beforehand in the app. The following are the most anticipated providers:
  • Bolt. Includes many towns. (updated Jan 2024)
  • Uber. Works in Nairobi. (updated Jan 2024)
  • Little Provide services related to food, transportation etc.
• Tuktuk: They run everywhere in the city centres (except Nairobi) or hotel areas on the coast. These are motorized tricycles or rickshaws like in India, cheap, comfortable and airy, fun and the best way to get around the city centre. Just stretch out your arm and one of what feels like a million tuktuks will stop. Also the best way to get to know a city, every driver will like to "take a lap". Negotiate price! Price approx. €0.5/km
• Motorbike taxi: There are also Boda-Boda, that is, young men with their small motorbikes, mostly by the dozen waiting for customers on the coast or at intersections, hotel driveways, shopping streets, in front of bars and restaurants. An alternative to taxi for short trips and during the day, not recommended at night or over longer distances. You should be aware that this is by far the most dangerous type of transport. Avarice can easily end here in the hospital. If you are staying in Kenya for a longer period of time, it is worthwhile to have one or two permanent Boda drivers you can trust and whom you can always fall back on. Price approx. €0.25/km

Most worldwide rental agencies have offices in Nairobi, Mombasa and Kisumu, and these offer reliable cars with a full back-up network. One can also rent cheaper cars from local distributors who are mostly reliable. However it is always good to do a background check before sending in a deposit. When you hire a car, no matter the brand name, always take note of the various dents, or states of the car as it may prove contentious especially when a "refundable" deposit was involved.

When it comes to renting a car for a safari, consider booking a customized vehicle driven by a local tour driver-guide, provided by a Kenya-based tour operator. The reason is that the road conditions in Kenya will pose a major challenge to anyone used to the high standards of quality roads and standards of driving in the West or parts of Asia as well. Roads, even national highways in some cases are in a state of disrepair, may have potholes, unmarked speed breakers (particularly dangerous) and a lack of road signs or directions. It is the general consensus even among Kenyans that standards of driving and road safety in Kenya are deficient and the country has a high rate of serious accidents. Renting a safari vehicle with a trained driver guide is often not that expensive and this service is offered by companies in Kenya. There are two types of safari vehicles: the less costly minibus (tour vans) and the 4x4 Toyota Land Cruiser models which cost more but are larger and have four wheel drive. Both vehicle types have game viewing roofs and the minibus is suitable for travel to most destinations except those that may have involve rough or muddy road travel.

It is quite convenient to hire a car online and pick it up at the airport once you arrive. The minimum driving age in Kenya is 18 years and for you to hire a vehicle, you may be required to be at least 23 years and have a minimum of 2 years driving experience. Other rules to comply with are: drive on the left side of the road, talking on a hand-held phone is prohibited, seat belts are mandatory and drivers must always carry a valid driver's license. Make sure that the car you are hiring has up-to-date comprehensive and PSV insurance which are normally displayed on the top left side of the windscreen. When hiring a car for cross-border travel you might need to purchase additional insurance and carry the motor vehicle original log book.

The Nairobi CBD is traffic prone and it is difficult to find parking on working hours. If you can, avoid going to the CBD on weekdays. However, roads out of the city are relatively easy to navigate and pleasant. Kenya has a lovely countryside and most of the roads linking the major towns are in good condition. Smaller roads however may be dilapidated and you might need to rent a 4X4 to get you there. A good map is essential, and if you are self driving to game parks and the like, a GPS would be very useful - sign posts are rare and you are never quite sure if you are on the correct road, leading to many wrong turnings and backtracking.

Some car rental companies provide free extras like a mobile phone with a local number. Other extras that are available at a cost are additional GPS, child seats, camping equipment, rooftop tent and a driver.

Most car rental companies offer cars of all sizes with Japanese models being dominant. All reservations can be made in English with some rental companies providing reservations in French, German, Chinese and Spanish. International car rental companies are easily found online, usually very competitive and professional.