IN India: how to get around

The Inner Line Permit (ILP) is an official travel document issued by the state government concerned to allow inward travel of an Indian citizen into a protected area for a limited period. It is obligatory for Indian citizens from outside those states to obtain a permit for entering into the protected state. An ILP is usually significantly easier to obtain than the analogous Protected Area Permit (PAP) which is the document required by non-domicile to enter the same areas. Citizens and former citizens of Afghanistan, China and Pakistan need special approval from the Ministry of Home Affairs to visit.

The document is an effort by the government to regulate movement to certain areas near the international border. See the respective state articles for more details.

• Arunachal Pradesh — issued by the Secretary of the Government of Arunachal Pradesh. An ILP is required for entering the state through any of the check gates across the interstate border with Assam or Nagaland. Permits are obtained at Arunachal Bhavan in all major cities. Permits are given to specific districts and therefore plan the itinerary before applying for district entry permits. Checkpoints at every district border only allow locals and permit holders.
• Manipur — issued by the Government of Manipur to allow inward travel of an Indian citizen into the state for a limited period to avoid uncontrollable influx. Most foreign tourists do not require the permit, but must register with the police within 24 hours of arrival; your hotel will usually handle this for you but check to be sure.
• Mizoram — issued by the Government of Mizoram. The permits are required for entering the state through any of the check gates across the interstate border with Assam, Manipur or Tripura. It is issued on arrival at Lengpui Airport in Aizawl. Most foreign tourists do not require the permit, but must register with the police within 24 hours of arrival; your hotel will usually handle this for you but check to be sure.
• Nagaland — issued by the Government of Nagaland to allow inward travel into the state for a limited period. It is required for anyone regardless of citizenship.
• Sikkim — a permit is required for Indian citizens to visit the 'Nathu La' pass which was an important passage of the silk route in medieval era and now a part of the border between India and China. Foreigners are not eligible for the permits. Further permits for high altitude regions like 'Lachung-Lachen' along with a high altitude lake called 'Gurudongmar Lake' can be obtained from Gangtok directly. Foreigners may be allowed. Another point known as 'Zero Point' also requires permits.

India's large size and uncertain roads make flying a viable option, especially as prices have tumbled in the last few years. India's domestic market is the third largest in the world after the U.S and China. Even India's offshore islands and remote mountain states are served by flights. Due to the aviation boom over the last few years, airports have not been able to keep up with the air traffic. Most Indian airports continue to function with one runway and a handful of boarding gates. Check-in and security queues can be quite long, especially at older airports in Delhi and Mumbai. The ones in Bengaluru and Hyderabad are modern and well-equipped.

In Delhi NCR, heavy winter fog can wreak havoc on schedules, especially during Christmas Season and January, leading to massive delays across the country. Flights to small airports up in the mountains, especially to Leh in Ladakh (which is reachable only by plane for most of the year), are erratic at the best of times.

In the unlikely event of an air accident, a helpline has been established, ☏ 1011. This was established following the deadly Air India 171 crash.

At one time, domestic flights were the monopoly of the government-owned Indian Airlines, but things have changed dramatically and now there are quite a few competitors, often offering excellent value.

The mainline airlines include:

• IndiGo (IATA: 6E): India's largest airline with a monopoly in the domestic market, a low-cost airline connecting 88 cities throughout the country. They fly a young fleet of Airbus A320s and ATR regional aircraft.
• Air India (IATA: AI): The flag carrier. Historically it has a poor reputation, but is now being rebooted by Tata Group. It has a wide network in the country and provides excellent regional connectivity. It is a member of the Star Alliance.
• Air India Express (IATA: IX): Low-cost subsidiary of Air India, which flies mainly on trunk routes.
• SpiceJet (IATA: SG): A low-cost airline, serving around 34 domestic destinations.
• Akasa Air (IATA: QP): A low-cost airline serving 20 domestic destinations with a fleet of Boeing 737 MAX aircraft. It is the most on-time airline in the Indian aviation industry.

The regional operators include:

• Alliance Air (IATA: 9I): India’s state-owned airline, which flies small aircraft to obscure places.
• Fly91 (IATA: IC): A regional airline based in Goa, serving 8 destinations with a fleet of ATR-72 aircraft, connecting towns and cities.
• IndiaOne Air (IATA: I7): A regional airline based in Bhubaneswar that aims to connect smaller cities with metropolitan cities. It is the first scheduled airline in India to operate a single-engined aircraft.
• Star Air (IATA: S5): A regional commuter airline based in Bengaluru, serving mostly southern and western destinations with a fleet of smaller Embraer jets, however it is rapidly expanding to the north.

Prices are relatively low and stable, since destinations are often served by several airlines. It doesn't hurt though to check prices a few times on different days during the week.

You will hear a lot about air tickets at ₹500, but those are promotional rates for limited seats which are sold out within seconds. In some other cases, the advertised fare may not include charges such as passenger service fees, air fuel surcharge and taxes, which will be added subsequently. Nonetheless, you do get good rates from budget airlines. Tickets for small cities will cost more than those for big ones, because of the spotty coverage noted above. Indian ticket pricing has not attained the bewildering complexity that the Americans and European have achieved, but they are moving there. You don't have to worry about higher prices on weekends, lower prices for round-trips, or lower prices for travel around weekends.

Checking in at Indian airports tends to be slow, involving lots of queues and multiple security checks. A few pointers to smooth your way:

• Arrive at least two to three hours before departure if travelling from the major airports. For domestic flights from minor airports, 60 or 90 minutes before is fine. Check-in closes 45 minutes before departure time and the boarding gate closes 25 minutes before departure. Though the original boarding might take longer, this rule is now being strictly implemented widely to avoid delays in flight departures.
• While in the past, airports only allowed passengers to enter the airport a few hours before their flight, this rule has been relaxed and you can often stay overnight in the airport in case you have an early morning flight.
• Some airports have DigiYatra available (available only for domestic flights from select destinations), which verifies passenger identities at various checkpoints, such as check-in, security, and boarding gates, without the need for physical documents. Specific queues when entering the airport, check-ins and security have been set up in 24 airports for passengers who have registered through the DigiYatra app. To register for DigiYatra you need an Aadhaar card.
• Otherwise, bring a print-out of your ticket or a soft copy of your ticket and a government-issued ID, else you are not allowed to enter the airport. They are checked and matched compulsorily at the entry gate by security guards. If you possess neither a printout or a soft copy, you can get a copy at the airline offices just outside the entry gate. Some airlines have started to charge for this privilege.
• Most older airports and many airports outside metro cities require that you screen your checked bags before check-in, usually at a stand near the entrance. In high-security airports like Jammu, Srinagar or anywhere in the Northeast, even carry-on baggage needs to be screened. All carry on baggage will be screened by an X-ray scanner and at the discretion of the security personnel, physically too.
• Once inside the check-in hall, you cannot leave the airport again unless your flight is delayed or cancelled. Make sure to have completed all your "business" before entering the airport. Also, in case you arrive many hours before the flight to be on the safe side, be sure to know how to keep yourself busy once inside the airport.
• Pick up a tag for every item of your carry-on baggage and attach it to it. The staff at the security checkpoint will stamp your boarding pass as well as the tags of your carry-on baggage. Do not put your boarding pass on the X-ray belt, bring it with you when you go through the metal detector. Make sure you received all these stamps before leaving the security check area. Without a stamped boarding pass you will not be allowed to board the plane. You will not be allowed to take any items onboard without a stamped tag attached.

Don't hesitate to ask someone if you are unsure about anything. Most staff in airports are very helpful to passengers. They usually understand English and will take pains to ensure you catch your flight. There are separate queues for passengers travelling light (without check-in baggage) and these queues are usually less crowded. Different airlines have different standards for what they allow as cabin baggage, so check with your airline’s website on the side of caution, especially if you are travelling by a low-cost airline. Usually, the allowed free baggage limit is 15 kg (33 lb) on most airlines.

India boasts one of the biggest rail networks in the world, and the rail system is very efficient, if rarely on schedule. Travelling by train allows you to discover the landscape and beauty of India, and is generally more economical than flying domestically. With services ranging from luxurious to regular, it's the best way to get to know the country and its people. Most train passengers will be curious about you and happy to pass the time with a chat. While taking an overnight sleeper train will save the money you would otherwise spend on a hotel, your sleep may not be as comfortable, as some routes are known for being overcrowded.

Luxury trains, like the Palace on Wheels and the Maharajas' Express, offer journeys between some major tourist destinations. Journeys on board these trains are all inclusive of accommodation, dining, sightseeing, transportation and porter charges.

Regular trains come in many varieties. The more expensive and luxurious trains, like Rajdhani, Shatabdi and Vande Bharat trains, are as a rule air-conditioned, run at speeds up to 130–160 km/h (81–99 mph), stop only at some major stations, only have reserved seats or beds and in general offer passengers more space. They are almost always on schedule, and get priority over other trains on their respective routes. They also have breakfast, lunch, evening tea and dinner included in your ticket price.

In contrast, the cheaper services are slower, often have no air-conditioning and include non-reserved compartments. There are also superfast trains, which merely means that their average speeds are at least 55 km/h (34 mph), and therefore the "superfast surcharge" is added to the ticket price.

Local trains are available in major cities except Bengaluru, operated by the Indian Railways to surrounding towns and suburbs. They are often overcrowded, as often the platforms on the stations. If travelling on a local train, be wary of your surroundings as there may be pickpockets in stations and trains. For women travellers there are women-only carriages, generally at both ends of the train.

There are both AC and non-AC classes of seats on most trains. In general, sleeping coaches are reserved for overnight trains, and sitting ones are for daytime/intercity services.

At most stations, hawkers selling tea, peanuts, and snack food and complete meals will go up and down the train. You can also get down on the station platform to look for food, but make sure you know the stoppage timing of the train at that station.

Most overnight trains have a pantry car and you can buy meals on board the train. The pantry staff will visit your seat to take your order. However, most pantry car meals aren't really good in quality or taste. In the most luxurious trains, meals are included in your ticket price and served at your seat during travel. You can purchase drinks, packaged snacks or biscuits from the pantry staff who circulate from one coach to another. There are no dining cars except in select luxury trains and in Deccan Queen, a daily train between Mumbai and Pune.

Rail travel in India is generally safe, however accidents happen and have previously resulted in death and serious injury. There are RPF (Railway Protection Force) police on trains and GRP (Government Railway Police) on stations if you need help. In the unlikely event of you being involved in a train accident, the helpline number is ☏ 1011.

Trains tend to fill up early, and tickets can be reserved up to 4 months in advance. The summer vacation period (mid-April to mid-June) is peak season for the railways, which means that you may need to book well in advance. Other holidays or long weekends may see a similar rush.

Tickets can be booked online and from counters at most railway stations. Other authorised ticketing agencies provide a much better user experience. However, you will need an IRCTC account if you want to book online. The e-wallet facility enables users to keep money on the website for faster booking of tickets. This facility reduces the time of ticket booking because users skip the payment gateway processing time. You can pay using your debit cards, credit cards or internet banking.

The Tatkal quota accounts for about 10% of the total seats. They become available a day before the departure date of a train at 10AM, allowing tourists who like to plan a trip as they go to book seats closer to the day of departure, for an extra fee. It is sometimes difficult to book Tatkal tickets online due to the excess amount of traffic on the website.

There's also the foreign tourist quota for visitors travelling to India on a tourist visa. The price is the same, but if the train is full, there's a chance that there will still be foreign tourist tickets available, and vice versa. Payment must be in foreign currency, usually US dollars ($) or British pounds (£), or in Indian rupees (₹) backed with adequate proof of foreign exchange conversion (an ATM receipt is usually acceptable). A passport may also be required.

While you cannot take a bus journey across India, buses are the second most-popular way of travelling across states and the only cheap way of reaching many places not on the broad-gauge rail network, such as Dharamsala, Imphal, Leh or Gangtok.

For short distances, just wait at the road that obviously goes into your direction. Unless you are in the middle of nowhere, there are many buses plying along Indian roads. If in doubt, just ask someone local.

Every state has its own public bus service, which primarily connects intrastate routes, but will also have services to neighbouring states. Many public transport companies have their own website to find the schedule and prices, but also to book tickets. If searching for connections, the website will sometimes not accept smaller villages along the way and you may have to select or search for the next larger town or city.

Private buses may or may not be available in the area you are travelling to, and even if they are, the quality could vary a lot. Be warned that many of the private buses, especially long-distance lines, play music or videos at ear-splitting volume. Even with earplugs it can be nerve-wracking. Restrooms are available in large bus stations but are crowded. The bus industry is extremely fragmented and there are few operators who offer services in more than 2 or 3 neighbouring states. Travel agents usually only offer seats on private buses. As of 2024, Flixbus offers rides in the north and north-west of India and intends to serve the whole country.

Prices between public and private buses do not differ much. However, public buses will give you a proper ticket indicating the origin and destination of your journey. Whereas the private ones will only give you a paper ticket with a price written on it by the conductor. For buses serving smaller villages there might not even be any ticket at all for private buses — if the other Indian passengers also don't get a ticket, then that's just the way. In general, you can expect to pay as little as ₹1/km in the plains (Punjab) and ₹2–2.30/km in more mountainous areas (Himachal Pradesh) with public and private buses. After a short while you will figure out what is the going local rate. Anything way beyond that rate, especially in private buses, is an indication that the conductor is trying to rip you off. Stand your ground and don't give in, potentially demand your money back and leave the bus.

There are usually multiple classes of buses. The ordinary or service buses are extremely crowded, with even standing room rarely available (unless you're among the first on board) as reservations are not possible and they tend to stop at too many places. On the upside, they're very cheap. The luxury or express are air-conditioning with assured seating (book in advance), and have limited stops, making them well worth the slight extra expense. But even these better-class buses rarely have toilets and make occasional snack and toilet breaks.

Regardless of the class of travel, all buses have to contend with the poor state of Indian highways and the havoc of Indian traffic which usually makes them slower, less comfortable and less safe than trains. Night buses are particularly hazardous, and for long-distance travel it is wise to opt for sleeper train services instead.

For major private (Volvo) bus connections, schedules, prices and tickets, try one of the following websites:

• redBus
• zingbus
• Paytm
• MakeMyTrip

Metro services are available in most major cities, relatively safe and well policed, with CCTV cameras on trains and stations, and well-trained staff. They are of quality comparable to Western countries. However, there is a possibility of overcrowding especially at peak rush hour. To enter you may need to complete a quick security check.

Some cities have unique rail-based transit systems alongside metro systems, like the trams in Kolkata or the monorails in Mumbai.

Regular metered taxis are common and can usually be hailed on the street. While they're supposed to use the meter, tales of "broken" meters and hapless fleeced tourists are common, so try to have an idea of the fare before you set off.

Trasnit hubs like airports or stations, have pre-paid taxi services managed by local traffic police officials. However, beware of touts who claim to be running pre-paid taxis. Always collect the receipt from the counter first. The receipt has two parts: one part is for your reference, and the other part you will hand to the taxi driver only after you reach your desired destination. The taxi driver will receive their payment from the pre-paid taxi counter by this other part.

The taxi driver may not know how to get to your destination, and will not tell you this beforehand. This may result in the taxi stopping at various points during the journey as the driver gets out to ask for directions. Insist on being taken to your original destination, and not a substitute offered by the driver (e.g. a different hotel).

The three largest players in ride-hailing services are Rapido, Ola Cabs and Uber, which operate in all major Indian cities and have ranks at major airports. There are also sometimes local companies offering ride-hailing services within their cities. Both pickup and dropoff points can be entered in English, minimising hassle.

Ola and Uber offer four-wheeler rides, whereas Rapido offer two-wheeler and auto-rickshaw services.

Fares are affordable by Western standards, with most city rides under ₹200, although surge pricing can be expensive. However, the very cheapest categories (UberX and Ola Micro/Mini, respectively) often have tiny, run-down cars, so paying the small premium for the next class up (Uber Comfort and Ola Prime) may be worth it

Ride-hailing laws vary widely. Goa is the only Indian state to ban ride-hailing completely due to prolonged resistance and strikes by local taxi operators. Chandigarh has suspended the licences of Ola, Uber and Rapido due to non-compliance for six months since mid-2026. In addition, Delhi and Maharashtra don't allow motorcycle taxis using white number plates, which indicate private vehicles.

Auto-rickshaws or autos are the most common means of hired transport in India. They are very handy for short-distance travel in cities, especially since they can weave their way through small alleys to bypass larger cars stuck in travel jams, but are not very suitable for long distances. Most are green and yellow, due to the new CNG gas laws, and some may be yellow and black in colour, with one wheel in the front and two in the back, with a leather or soft plastic top.

E-rickshaws are also increasingly common, being eco-friendly and very cheap. They serve the same purpose as autos, but travel at a lower speed. The e-rickshaw can fit as many as 6 people in 1 vehicle, with some safety features.

When getting an auto, you can either negotiate the fare or go by the meter. In almost all cases it is better to use the meter—a negotiated fare means that you are being charged a higher than normal rate. A metered fare starts around ₹13 (different for different areas), and includes the first 1 to 2 km of travel. Autos carry either digital or analogue meters wherein the analogue meters may have been tampered with. It may be a better option to go for a negotiated fare when the auto has an analogue meter.

Never get in an auto without either the meter being turned on, or the fare negotiated in advance. In nearly all cases the driver will ask an exorbitant sum (for Indian standards) from you later. A normal fare would be ₹11-12 for the first km and ₹7-8 per km after that. In most cities, auto drivers are provided with a rate card that elaborately describes the fares on per kilometre basis. A careful tourist must verify the meter reading against the rate card before making a payment.

Ideally, you should talk with a local to find out what the fare for any estimated route will be. Higher rates may apply at night, and for special destinations such as airports. Finally, factor in that auto drivers may have to pay bribes to join the queue for customers at premium locations such as expensive hotels. The bribe will be factored in the fare.

Make sure that the driver knows where they are going. Many auto drivers will claim to know the destination without really having any clue as to where it is. If you know something about the location, quiz them on it to screen out the liars. If you do not know much about the location, make them tell you in no uncertain terms that they know where it is. This is because after they get lost and drive all over the place, they will often demand extra payment for their own mistake. You can then tell them that they lied to you, and wasted your time, so they should be happy to get the agreed-upon fee.

Autos are banned on some areas and roads; namely national highways, expressways, and some inner city roads; which can cause delays.

Cycle rickshaws are the non-motorised counterpart of auto-rickshaws where two people sit on an elevated seat at the back and a person pedals from the front. They can often be quite expensive, however is supported by environmentalists as being more eco-friendly than autos.

There are also pulled rickshaws in Kolkata. However, it's rare even in the city due to the uber-popularity of autos.

Other than taxi service, it's quite easy and common to rent a car with a driver in India. If you travel in summer, it is recommended to take a car with air-conditioning.

It is rare to find a driver that speaks more than a few words of English. Make sure you can trust your driver before you leave your goods with him. If he shows any suspicious behaviour, make sure you keep your bags with you. It is generally a good idea to have all your valuables with you.

Be wary of reckless driving when renting a car with a driver. Do not be afraid to tell the driver that you have time to see around and that you are not in a hurry. Make sure also that your driver gets enough rest time and time to eat. In general, as you visit restaurants, the driver may eat at the same time (either separately at the same restaurant or at some other nearby place).

Unlike parts of Asia, India drives on the left — at least most of the time. You can drive in India if you have a local licence or an International Driving Permit, but unless you are accustomed to driving in extremely chaotic streets in cities, you probably will not want to.

However, a car may get you pretty much anywhere in India, and driving is a good option for more remote destinations outside the rail network. However, the traffic culture remains dangerous, with not too much respect of rules. Besides, fuel can be expensive.

Road distances are in kilometres (8 km is about 5 miles), and speed limits are in kilometres per hour (100 km/h is about 62 mph).

Most expressways (controlled-acess highways) have tolls, which are levied based on vehicle category, type of expressway and distance travelled.

Road signs tend to follow European practices closely, usually identical to United Kingdom or the Vienna Convention on Road Signs and Signals. However, yellow rectangular signs that do carry messages like "Be gentle on my curves" and "Danger creeps when safety sleeps" are present nationwide. A circle with a red diagonal slash shows prohibited activities and circles without slashes show rules, blue circles indicate compulsory instructions and triangles with red borders indicate cautions and dangers. Blue rectangular signs are used in metropolitan cities or urban areas, or on expressways. Green rectangular signs are used everywhere else.

Some people argue that the best way to experience India is on a motorbike; riding a motorbike to travel across India will get you a closer look and feel of the country along with all the smells and sounds. However, this story seems to be mostly popular among the new emerging Indian middle class who ply destinations like Ladakh with their bikes.

Motorcycling is a better option for navigating cities with chaotic traffic. However, it is important to prioritise your safety, as two-wheelers make up a vast majority of road accidents in India.

Many companies organise package tours or tailor-made tours for enthusiastic bikers and the adventurous, or a safer motorbike experience of India. They will take care of luggage and maintenance of the bike. Another choice, popular with people who like taking risks, is to buy a motorcycle.

The Royal Enfield is a popular, or as some would say, the only choice for its classic looks and macho mystique. This is despite its high petrol consumption (25–30 km/l or 59–71 mpg‑US), supposed low reliability and relative difficulty to handle (it is quite heavy and the seat can be high for some). It is "classic" 1940s engineering after all and requires regular service adjustments; you can find an Enfield mechanic with decades of experience in every town, who will perform miracles at about ₹100 an hour labour cost. You don't want to be riding roads at 4,000–5,000 m (13,000–16,000 ft) in Ladakh and suddenly the bike breaking down — here it will be quite difficult to find a mechanic.

Alternatively, one can opt for a smaller yet quicker, more fuel efficient and more versatile bikes from brands like Hero, Honda and Bajaj. They can range from 100 cc to the newly launched 220 cc bikes. The smaller variants (100–125 cc) can give you a mileage exceeding 50 km/l (120 mpg‑US) on the road, while giving less power if one is opting to drive with pillion on the highways. The bigger variants (150–220 cc) are more powerful and one can get a feel of the power especially on highways — the mileage is lesser for these bikes anywhere between 35–45 km/l (82–106 mpg‑US).

Preferably tourists should go for second-hand bikes rather than purchasing new ones. The smaller 100 cc variants can be purchased for anywhere between ₹15,000–25,000 depending on the year of make and condition of vehicle. The bigger ones can be bought from ₹30,000 onwards.

Two-wheelers are banned on some roads — namely national highways (not really enforced), and national expressways (enforced). They will have to use the service roads on the side of these roads.

A scooter in India is similar to a motorcycle but with an underbone or step-through frame, a seat and a platform for the rider's feet. Scooters are easier to operate and in general have better fuel economy than motorcycles. Popular scooter brands include TVS, Honda and Hero.

There are also eco-friendly e-scooters from brands like Bajaj, Ola and Okinawa.

Hitchhiking in India, especially in remote regions, is very easy due to the enormous number of cargo trucks and local traffic on every highway and road. Most drivers do not speak English or any other international language; however, most have a very keen sense of where the cities and villages are along the road. It is rare for any of them to expect payment.

Hitchhiking in cities, highways and crowded places is safe, but refrain from it on deserted places, less populated areas, forest roads, etc. However, this rule really also depends on the region. Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh can generally be considered to be safe for hitchhiking. However, it's probably not a good idea in Bihar, one of the poorest states of India. Also, it is better to stick to daytime travel.

When hitchhiking, it is important to understand the system of vehicle number plates in India. There are yellow (commercial), green (electric) and white (private) ones. White ones are generally always safe for hitchhiking for free, because these are local people in their own car.

For yellow number plates, it depends: regular cars, SUVs, vans and minibuses will most always be taxis, and it doesn't make sense to hail them. However, pickup trucks, cargo trucks, and anything that looks like made for transporting goods, is safe to hail. They shouldn't demand any money, but if so, just tell them that they are no taxis but cargo vehicles.

India is known for its multitude of rivers and there are numerous boats and ferries to cross certain rivers and other water bodies. However, boat transport is less important for many budget travellers since they will cross most water bodies with bridges and tunnels anyway. That said, boats are still necessary to access certain islands, like the Andaman Islands, Lakshadweep, Mumbai's Elephanta Island and West Bengal's Sagar Island.

Also Kerala's rivers, backwaters and lagoons make travel by ferry an effective service, and in some places, ferries are more popular and easier than road or rail transport.

Apart from these services, there are also luxury river cruises, such as along the Ganges and Brahmaputra rivers.